PRICE

$1,995 (3-day climb extension)
See Everest Base Camp trek pricing

SCHEDULE

Fall
October 5 – October 25, 2020
October 19 – November 8, 2020

DETAILS

21 days in Nepal
Grade: Beginner

 
 
 
 
 

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OVERVIEW

Mountain Gurus Island Peak Climb is an excellent introduction to the world of Himalayan mountaineering. Known to locals as “Imja Tse,” this trekking peak stands at the head of the Imja Khola Valley, a branch of the mighty Khumbu Valley in the heart of the Everest region. The route is non-technical. Climbers of all skill levels will enjoy it, particularly the final, thrilling, knife-edge ridge to the summit surrounded by spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and other giants of the Himalayas.

Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climb • 21 Days

This adventure combines an ascent of Island Peak with the classic trek to Everest Base Camp. For most trekkers, simply seeing Mount Everest from Kala Pattar or from the base of the Khumbu Icefall is a dream come true. Island Peak enriches the experience, offering an ideal objective for new climbers and for veteran mountaineers seeking to expand their high-altitude experience or summit their first Himalayan peak. During the spring climbing season, this expedition includes one night in Everest Base Camp. The itinerary allows ample time for acclimatization to ensure a safe and successful journey.

Our journey begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. We then fly to Lukla and trek along the Dudh Koshi River to the legendary village of Namche Bazaar, the main trading center of the Sherpa people and the gateway to the Khumbu Valley. Over the following days, we visit the famous Tengboche Monastery and ascend to Everest Base Camp with stunning views of Ama Dablam, Kantenga, Thamserku and eventually Pumori, Lhotse and Everest rising above us.

From Everest Base Camp we turn our attention to Island Peak. We trek up the Chhukung Valley to our base camp on the edge of a glacial moraine in an icy world of massive rock walls and hanging glaciers. After crossing the glacier, we secure ourselves to fixed ropes and climb a steep headwall to the snowy, exposed south ridge and the summit. The views of the surrounding 8,000-meter peaks, including Lhotse and Makalu, are nothing less than astonishing.

Day to Day Itinerary

Day 1 – 11 • Kathmandu – Dingboche
Day 13 • Imja Tse Base Camp • 16,300 ft
Day 14 • High Camp • 18,000 ft
Day 15 • Summit Island Peak • 20,305 ft
Day 16 – 21 • Chhukung – Kathmandu

ITINERARY

Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak

Expedition begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Day 1 – 11 • Kathmandu – Gorak Shep • 16,942 feet

Please refer to our Everest Base Camp Trek itinerary for the approach to EBC and Island Peak.

Day 12 • Dingboche • 14,250 feet

We descend the Khumbu Glacier from Everest Base Camp into the lush, beautiful Khumbu Valley surrounded by spectacular snowcapped peaks. Throughout the day, we enjoy superb views of Lhotse, Island Peak and the north face of Ama Dablam.

Vertical Descent Trekking: 2,700 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours

Accommodations: Lodge in Dingboche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 13 • Island Peak Base Camp • 16,300 feet

After breakfast we ascend the valley to Island Peak Base Camp. Base camp is situated on the edge of a glacial moraine in an icy world of massive rock walls and hanging glaciers.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 2,000 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours

Accommodations: Tented Camp at Island Peak Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 14 • Island Peak High Camp • 18,000 feet

Today we climb to high camp, where we rest and prepare for our summit push. We also have the option of climbing Island Peak directly from base camp and using today to rest and refresh our climbing skills

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,700 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours

Accommodations: Tented Camp at Island Peak High Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 15 • Summit Day • Imja Tse • 20,305 feet

We wake early and leave camp, climbing rocky, open slopes to a flat area occasionally used as an advanced base camp. We continue up a rock gully before traversing right and climbing a series of rolling benches that lead to a technically easy but exposed ridge just below the base of the glacier. Here we rope up and climb the glacier to the base of a steep snow and ice headwall. We ascend fixed ropes until we can step onto the snowy exposed south ridge surrounded by a panorama of 8,000 meter giants, including Lhotse (27,890ft) and Makalu (27,805ft). Ama Dablam (22,493ft) and Baruntse (25,328ft) lie in the distance. With this sea of Himalayan peaks surrounding us, we ascend to the summit, celebrate our success, then descend our route to base camp and on down to the tiny settlement of Chhukung, where we check into a cozy mountain lodge.

Vertical Ascent Trekking: 2,300 feet
Trekking Time: 10-14 hours

Accommodations: Lodge in Chhukung
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 16 – 20 • Chhukung – Kathmandu

Over the next five days we descend to Lukla and return to Kathmandu.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)

Day 21 • Depart Kathmandu

Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.

Meals Included: Breakfast (B)

Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

DETAILS

Price

$1,995 (3-day climb extension)
See Everest Base Camp trek pricing

Deposit and Payments

  • $700.00 deposit includes a $500.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application.
  • Balance due 120 days prior to start date.
  • The balance can be paid by check, wire transfer, or by credit card with a surcharge of 3.0%

Price Includes

  • Park fees and climbing permit
  • Lodges during the trek
  • Tented accommodations
  • Scheduled meals during the expedition
  • Professional mountain guide
  • Scheduled porter service based on itinerary
  • Baggage transport (limited to 30kg / 66lbs)
  • All group equipment for the expedition (including tents, stoves, group climbing gear, fixed ropes, emergency oxygen)

Price Does Not Include

  • International airfare and meals during travel
  • Visa fees
  • Non-scheduled airport transfers
  • Non-scheduled meals
  • Personal gear
  • Non-scheduled porter service
  • Trip cancellation insurance (highly recommended)
  • Single room supplement (hotels only)
  • Medical and evacuation coverage
  • Helicopter flights due to delays
  • Early departure fees
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Tips and gratuities

GEAR LIST

A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.

Head and Face

  • Warm Hat: Wool or synthetic that cover the ears
  • Buff or Balaclava
  • Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
  • Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
  • Sunscreen: SPF 30+
  • Lip Balm: SPF 30+
  • Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.

Upper Body

  • Baselayer Tops: One synthetic long-sleeve shirt. Hoods for sun protection are strongly recommended.
  • Mid-layer Top: A synthetic or fleece top.
  • Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
  • Hardshell Jacket: A fully waterproof shell. GORE-TEX© or equivalent. Hoods are required.
  • Insulated Jacket: Heavy weight down. 700+ fill or higher required.

Handwear

  • Lightweight Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
  • Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove or mitten with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.

Lower Body

  • Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton.
  • Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated.
  • Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your hardshell pants without removing your boots.
  • Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.

Footwear

  • Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible double plastic, or Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots are required.

Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guide for recommendations.

  • Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
  • Heavyweight Socks: One pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.

Sleeping

  • Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to 0ᵒ Fahrenheit).
  • Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad or an inflatable pad.

Packing and Backpack

  • Backpack: One 65-75 liter pack for personal gear. Should have an effective waist belt, fit properly and provide good support while carrying 45-60 lbs.
  • Liner Bags: 1 large plastic contractor bag.
  • Day Pack: Lightweight 30-liter pack 
  • Duffel Bag: One large, waterproof PVC duffel bafor transporting gear via porters or pack animals. 

Climbing Gear

  • Ice axe: 55-75 cm mountaineering axe.
  • Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
  • Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
  • Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
  • Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
  • Locking Carabiners: (2) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
  • Non-Locking Carabiners: (2) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
  • Ascender: Left or right handed
  • Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
  • Nylon Slings: (2) 60 cm nylon slings

Hydration

  • Water Bottles: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©

Personal Travel, Health and First Aid

  • Travel wallet for passport, cash and travel documents
  • Two (2) passport photos
  • Casual travel clothes
  • Personal snacks: We recommend a mix of sweet and salty whole foods (nuts, dried fruit, dried meat) and energy foods such as Gu, Clif Bars and Shot Blocks
  • Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
  • Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
  • Hand sanitzer (several small bottles)
  • Small soap
  • Quick-dry towel
  • Toothbrush / paste
  • Nail trimmers
  • Baby wipes
  • Earplugs
  • Camera
  • Altitude watch
  • Small personal first-aid kit including:
    • Diamox / acetalzolamide: 125 mg
    • NSAIDs such as aspirin or ibuprofen
    • Antibiotics: such as Azithromyacin for upper respiratory, Ciproflaxin for gastrointestinal
    • Melatonin
    • Antacids
    • Cold and flu meds
    • Blister kit
    • Bandaid
    • Wound closure strips
    • Triple antibiotic ointment
    • Scissors
    • Any personal prescription meds or asthma meds

TRAVEL & FITNESS

Travel

Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal

Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.

• 15 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($30 USD)
• 30 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($50 USD)
• 90 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($125 USD)

Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic or Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) for updated immunization recommendations for Nepal.

Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal

International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in-country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the country’s destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if applicable. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.

Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.

Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.

Island Peak Fitness & Training

Climbing Grade: Beginner

Island Peak is usually climbed after an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp. We strongly recommend this itinerary because your body’s response to the altitude can determine whether or not you succeed on this climb. Climbers should have basic snow and glacier climbing skills before attempting this peak. Good physical fitness is essential. While ascending to high camp and to the summit you will be breathing heavily and moving slowly while carrying a pack weighing between 30 and 40 pounds.

Before the expedition we recommend that, at minimum, you take a mountaineering course and spend time at altitude.

Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Island Peak.

  • Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
  • Mount Elbrus
  • Mexican Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes, Peaks of Bolivia

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the physical requirements for this trek and climb?

The trek requires 6 to 8 hours of hiking per day with a 20-pound pack. The climb requires 10 to 14 hours of climbing in a day with a 25-pound pack, while gaining 3,000 to 4,000 feet of elevation or more. Strong hiking skills and excellent physical fitness are essential.

Who guide my climb?

Our Nepal climbs are led by a local Sherpa mountain guide or an American mountain guide with extensive experience leading our climbing teams. Your Sherpa or American guide will be accompanied by assistant Sherpa guides and porters. Many of our Sherpa guides are native to the Khumbu region of Nepal at the foot of Mount Everest.

What are the Nepal climbing seasons?

Nepal’s trekking and climbing seasons are dictated by the schedule of the annual monsoon, which brings heavy rain and snow from June to September. For trekking to Everest Base Camp and climbing Island Peak, conditions are excellent in the pre-monsoon season from March through May, when we have the opportunity to visit Everest Base Camp during the busy spring climbing season. October and November can also bring superb weather, with more solitude in the mountains. In the fall, it is not possible for us to overnight at Base Camp because few if any climbing teams will be on the mountain. The winter months from December through February are very cold in the high mountains.

How much will my pack weigh?

During the trek you will carry only a light pack with the gear you’ll need for the day. For your comfort, your daypack will not weigh more than 15 to 25 pounds. While climbing Island Peak, you will carry a roughly 25-pound summit pack. Throughout the expedition, porters will carry all your extra clothing and overnight equipment. At no point will you carry group expedition supplies or your own camping equipment. You must be in top physical and mental condition to succeed on this climb.

Where will we stay?

In Kathmandu, you will stay in clean, comfortable hotels within walking distance of Kathmandu’s bustling Thamel tourist district. On the approach to base camp you will stay in some of the finest available, family-owned tea houses and lodges. While climbing and in remote areas we overnight in high-quality mountain tents.