• 19,347 ft

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A beautiful, glaciated volcano at the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes
Cotopaxi is Ecuador’s most iconic peak
Cotopaxi is one of the most impressive volcanoes in the Andes of South America. It towers nearly 8,000 feet above the Ecuadorian Highlands, capped with one of the world’s few equatorial glaciers. At 19,347 feet, it is the second-highest peak in Ecuador, and it offers an excellent introduction to the world of high-altitude mountaineering. The mountain requires intermediate mountaineering skills and offers straightforward climbing at moderately high altitudes. After climbing in the Pacific Northwest, our Cotopaxi expeditions are a great next step for those seeking to expand their international mountaineering experience.
Our Illiniza and Cotopaxi Climb can be extended with a climb to the summit of Chimborazo (20,702 ft), the farthest point on the earth’s surface from the center of the earth.
Ecuador • Start Quito • End Mariscal Sucre International Airport Travel & Airport details »
Tour Highlights
- 9 days of adventure in Ecuador
- Co-led by an American and Ecuadorian mountain guide
- Acclimatization hikes on Pasochoa, Rucu Pichincha and Corazon
- Summit attempt on Illiniza North
- Summit attempt on Cotopaxi
- 3 nights at a premium hotel in Quito, the Ecuadorian capitol
- 1 night at a premium lodge in the Illinizas Ecological Reserve
- 2 nights in mountain refuges on Illiniza North and Cotopaxi
- 1 night at a hotel near the airport at the conclusion of the trip
- 7 Breakfast, 7 Lunch, 4 Dinner
“This was my first trip with Mountain Gurus after having taken their 5-day glacier mountaineering course on Mount Baker with Northwest Alpine Guides. The trip was extremely well planned and executed from signup to arriving in-country, to all the lodging and climbing logistics. MG’s also has reliable and professional in-country connections with local guide staff and tour operators who help ensure everything goes as planned and that every client reaches their goals.” ~ Windy, January 2020

DAY 1
Arrive Quito, Ecuador
Arrive at Mariscal Sucre International Airport in Quito, Ecuador (UOI). Most flights arrive in Quito in the late evening. Our driver will be awaiting your arrival at the airport and will take you to the hotel.
Hotel Ibis, Quito (3 nights)


DAY 2-3
Acclimatization hikes
In preparation for the larger peaks, we acclimatize by hiking up Pasochoa. On clear days, we may see condors and wild horses on this extinct volcano. Our next hike is Rucu Pichincha, starting from a trailhead we access via cable car just outside of Quito. Our late afternoon and evening are free to explore Quito and organize our gear.
Hotel Ibis, Quito (3 nights)
Activity Moderate Hiking
DAY 4
Hike to the summit of Corazon
We depart Quito early and drive a few hours south to a quaint hacienda near the base of Corazon in Illinizas Ecological Reserve. After checking in and a short drive to the trailhead, we climb Corazon. Our ascent ends with an exhilarating rocky scramble onto the summit. We eat lunch and then return to the lodge for the evening.
Chuquiragua Lodge (1 night)
Activity Moderate Hiking


DAY 5-6
Illiniza Norte Ascent
Our expedition now turns its attention to Illiniza Norte. After driving to the trailhead, we hike three hours to the Nuevo Horizontes Refuge between the north and south peaks of Illiniza. The refuge is known as the smallest high mountain hut in the Ecuadorian Andes.
We rise early, eat breakfast, and set our sights on the summit. After a short hike to the base of the climbing route, we are rewarded with spectacular views of Iliniza Sur and Cotopaxi as we ascend the long ridgeline of Iliniza Norte. After we summit, we descend to the refuge, pack our gear and hike out. That evening we relax in the comfort of a beautiful hacienda near the entrance of Cotopaxi National Park.
Nuevos Horizontes Refuge (1 night)
Hacienda Los Mortiños or Tambopaxi Lodge (1 night)
Activity Beginner Mountaineering
DAY 7-8
Climb to the summit of Cotopaxi
The team gears up and shuttles to Cotopaxi. From the trailhead we hike 40 minutes to the Jose F. Rivas refuge. We enjoy lunch, relax and prepare to climb. For our summit push, we leave the refuge around midnight. From the hut we ascend moderate glacier slopes, crossing snow bridges and crevasses as the mountain steepens. After navigating a heavily crevassed section of the glacier, we reach the final summit slope. With ice axes in hand, we climb a challenging section of 35- to 40-degree snow until suddenly we are stepping onto the crater rim of one of the world’s highest active volcanoes. We descend and transfer to a hotel near Mariscal Sucre International Airport.
Or extend your trip by continuing to a summit attempt of Chimborazo, the highest peak in Ecuador.
Jose F. Rivas Refuge (1 night)
Wyndham Hotel (1 night)
Activity Beginner Mountaineering


DAY 9
Departure (If not continuing to Chimborazo)
Today we depart Mariscal Sucre International Airport on our flights home.
DAY 9-12
Extend your stay with a climb of Chimborazo
Following a rest day and night, our team drives to Chimborazo. From the trailhead, we hike two hours to our high camp just below the glacier. With a midnight alpine start, we follow a new climbing route to the west-northwest to avoid rockfall. We pass the base of a rock formation called El Castillo or “The Castle” and then climb to Chimborazo’s false summit, Pico Veintimilla. A half-hour walk across a saddle takes us to the top of the mountain at Whymper Summit, ending with one of the best views in Ecuador. We descend and transfer to a hotel near Mariscal Sucre International Airport. Ecuador, Chimborazo »
Accommodation After Cotopaxi (1 night)
Chimborazo High Camp at Stubel (1 night)
Wyndham Hotel (1 night)
Activity Intermediate Mountaineering

Premium Hotels, Lodges, Mountain Refuge
Our hand-selected hotels offer exceptional hospitality and experiences as special as the regions we explore.*

NIGHTS 1-3
Hotel Ibis in Quito
Your journey begins in Quito, Ecuador’s vibrant capital. You’ll stay at the Hotel Ibis, a modern and comfortable hotel known for its convenient location and excellent amenities. This base allows for easy exploration of the city’s rich culture and history.

NIGHT 4
Chuquiragua Lodge
After summiting Corazon, we descend and overnight at Chuquiragua Lodge, located at the base of the Illinizas. This cozy mountain lodge offers a welcoming environment with rustic charm and panoramic views of the surrounding volcanoes. It’s an ideal place to relax, refuel, and prepare for the higher climbs ahead. Warm hospitality, traditional Ecuadorian meals, and tranquil surroundings make this stay a memorable part of your acclimatization journey.

NIGHT 5
Nuevos Horizantes Mountain Refuge
On the evening of Day 5, we stay at the Nuevos Horizontes Refuge, a high mountain hut, perched at 15,416 feet between Illiniza Norte and Sur. Basic but atmospheric, it serves as a perfect high camp for our ascent.

NIGHT 6
Los Mortiños Lodge
After summiting Illiniza Norte on Day 6, we descend and transfer to Los Mortiños Lodge, a lovely, family-run eco-lodge near Cotopaxi National Park. Set in wide-open páramo with views of Cotopaxi, the lodge provides a warm shower, hearty food, and comfortable beds to recharge before the final summit push.

NIGHT 7
Jose F. Rivas Refuge on Cotopaxi
For the summit attempt on Cotopaxi, you’ll stay at the Jose F. Rivas Refuge, located at 15,744 feet. This mountain refuge offers basic accommodations, providing a functional and comfortable setting before your alpine start for the summit climb.

NIGHT 8
Wyndham Hotel near Mariscal Sucre International Airport (If not continuing to Chimborazo)
Following the climb, you’ll return to Quito and stay at the Wyndham Hotel, conveniently located near Mariscal Sucre International Airport. This hotel offers comfortable accommodations, allowing for a restful night before your departure.
*Hotels may vary based on departure.
If you have climbed in the Pacific Northwest, Mexico or elsewhere in North America and you are ready to expand your skills, Mountain Gurus’ Cotopaxi Expedition is an excellent choice. Home to massive, 5,000- and 6,000-meter volcanoes, Ecuador is an ideal training ground for climbers who want to broaden their high-altitude experience and glacier mountaineering skills for larger objectives such as the Seven Summits and the peaks of Alaska and the Himalaya.
With its pristine nature preserves, luxurious hot springs and vibrant cities, Ecuador is also a logical next step for climbers who have already summited Mount Rainier, Mount Baker or other North American peaks and are simply seeking their next adventure. Because of Ecuador’s latitude, its seasons are reversed, making it an ideal destination during the North American winter.


















Ecuador
• Start Quito • End Mariscal Sucre International Airport
International Destinations
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in-country in the destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Entry/Visa
A valid passport is required for American citizens to enter Ecuador. American citizens do not need a visa for visits of up to 30 days for tourism.
Meals
All meals are provided as per meal schedule.
Gear
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in a pre-departure information packet upon booking. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list. Request a detailed itinerary.
Things you should know about this trip
When is the best season to climb?
Ecuador’s main climbing season lasts from November to February. Excellent climbing conditions also occur during the dry weather in June.
How hard is this climb and what technical skills do I need?
Climbers should have basic snow and mountaineering experience. We recommend taking our 3-Day Intro to Mountaineering Course or our 5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course in the Pacific Northwest to prepare for Cotopaxi.
What are the fitness requirements?
You must be in good aerobic condition and able to hike for 7 to 9 hours on summit day while carrying a 20 to 25-pound pack. Previous climbing experience will increase your chances of reaching the summits. Ice axe, crampon, and rope travel skills are essential for a safe and successful climbing adventure.