Our Lobuche East Peak Climb provides an excellent introduction to the world of Himalayan mountaineering. Lobuche’s twin summits tower high above the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier near Everest Base Camp. The West Peak (20,160 feet) is considered a difficult, technical climbing objective. Our route ascends the more straightforward East Peak (20,075’), which is considered a trekking peak. Even so, the route to the summit includes stretches of moderately steep and exposed terrain and is a superb challenge for both new and experienced climbers. From the summit, we enjoy a dramatic 360° view of the Himalayas, with five of the planet’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks visible in the distance.
Everest Base Camp Trek and Lobuche Peak Climb • 21 Days
This adventure combines an ascent of Lobuche Peak with the classic trek to Everest Base Camp. For most trekkers, simply seeing Mount Everest from Kala Pattar or from the base of the Khumbu Icefall is a dream come true. Lobuche Peak enriches the experience, offering an ideal objective for new climbers and for veteran mountaineers seeking to expand their high-altitude experience or summit their first Himalayan peak. During the spring climbing season, this expedition includes one night in Everest Base Camp. The itinerary allows ample time for acclimatization to ensure a safe and successful journey.
Our journey begins in the historic city of Kathmandu, known for its fascinating Nepalese culture and ancient temples. We then fly to Lukla and trek along the Dudh Koshi River to the legendary village of Namche Bazaar, the main trading center of the Sherpa people and the gateway to the Khumbu Valley. Over the following days, we visit the famous Tengboche Monastery and ascend to Everest Base Camp with stunning views of Ama Dablam, Kantenga, Thamserku and eventually Pumori, Lhotse and Everest rising above us.
After reaching Everest Base Camp, we turn our attention to Lobuche Peak. We approach the mountain via the trekking outpost of Lobuche, then continue up the valley towards the mountain’s East Face. We cross the Khumbu Glacier moraine, then part ways with the main Khumbu trekking route and climb open slopes to Lobuche Base Camp, and on to our high camp at Hidden Lake. The Southeast Ridge Route starts at the glacier’s edge. We follow a narrow prow up 45- to 50-degree alpine ice to the summit ridge, where we are rewarded with stunning views of Everest and Lhotse to the east. We ascend this 30-degree ridge to the summit plateau surrounded by a panorama of the world’s highest mountains.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 1 – 11 • Kathmandu – Lobuche
Day 13 • Base Camp • 16,000 ft
Day 14 • High Camp • 17,700 ft
Day 15 • Lobuche East Peak • 20,075 ft
Day 16 – 21 • Pheriche – Kathmandu
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Everest Base Camp Trek and Lobuche Peak
Expedition begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Day 1 – 11 • Kathmandu – Gorak Shep • 16,942 feet
Please refer to our Everest Base Camp Trek itinerary for the approach to EBC and Lobuche Peak.
Day 12 • Lobuche • 16,100 feet
We descend the Khumbu Glacier from Everest Base Camp and return to Lobuche for the evening. (B, L, D)
Vertical Descent Trekking: 3,800 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Lodge in Lobuche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 13 • Lobuche Base Camp • 16,000 feet
After breakfast we cross the Khumbu Valley towards Lobuche Peak’s East Face. We climb to base camp situated on the edge of Hidden Lake. We prepare for our summit day.
Vertical Descent Trekking: 100 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Lobuche Peak Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 14 • Lobuche High Camp • 17,700 feet
We climb to high camp where we rest and acclimatize for tomorrow’s summit climb beneath remarkable views of Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks. We also have the option to climb Lobuche Peak directly from base camp and use this day to rest and refresh climbing skills.
Vertical Ascent Trekking: 1,700 feet
Trekking Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Lobuche Peak High Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 15 • Summit Day • Lobuche East Peak • 20,075 feet
We wake early and leave camp, ascending to the edge of the glacier and the toe of our route on the Southeast Ridge. We transition onto fixed ropes and climb the narrow ridge on 45- to 50-degree alpine ice. When we step onto the summit ridge, we are rewarded with stunning views of Everest and Lhotse to the east. We ascend this 30-degree ridge to the summit plateau surrounded by a panorama of five of the world’s fourteen 8,000-meter peaks. We descend our route to high camp where we break camp and continue on to Pheriche.
Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,300 feet
Climbing Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Lodge in Pheriche
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 16 – 20 • Pheriche – Kathmandu
Over the next five days we descend to Lukla and return to Kathmandu.
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 21 • Depart Kathmandu
Transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.
Meals Included: Breakfast (B)
Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.
Head and Face
- Warm Hat: Wool or synthetic that cover the ears
- Buff or Balaclava
- Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
- Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
- Sunscreen: SPF 30+
- Lip Balm: SPF 30+
- Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.
Upper Body
- Baselayer Tops: One synthetic long-sleeve shirt. Hoods for sun protection are strongly recommended.
- Mid-layer Top: A synthetic or fleece top.
- Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
- Hardshell Jacket: A fully waterproof shell. GORE-TEX© or equivalent. Hoods are required.
- Insulated Jacket: Heavy weight down. 700+ fill or higher required.
Handwear
- Lightweight Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
- Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove or mitten with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.
Lower Body
- Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton.
- Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated.
- Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your hardshell pants without removing your boots.
- Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.
Footwear
- Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible double plastic, or Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots are required.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guide for recommendations.
- Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
- Heavyweight Socks: One pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.
Sleeping
- Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to 0ᵒ Fahrenheit).
- Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad or an inflatable pad.
Packing and Backpack
- Backpack: One 65-75 liter pack for personal gear. Should have an effective waist belt, fit properly and provide good support while carrying 45-60 lbs.
- Liner Bags: 1 large plastic contractor bag.
- Day Pack: Lightweight 30-liter pack
- Duffel Bag: One large, waterproof PVC duffel bag for transporting gear via porters or pack animals.
Climbing Gear
- Ice Axe: 55-75 cm mountaineering axe.
- Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
- Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
- Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
- Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
- Locking Carabiners: (2) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
- Non-Locking Carabiners: (2) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
- Ascender: Left or right handed
- Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
- Nylon Slings: (2) 60 cm nylon slings
Hydration
- Water Bottles: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
Personal Travel, Health and First Aid
- Travel wallet for passport, cash and travel documents
- Two (2) passport photos
- Casual travel clothes
- Personal snacks: We recommend a mix of sweet and salty whole foods (nuts, dried fruit, dried meat) and energy foods such as Gu, Clif Bars and Shot Blocks
- Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
- Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
- Hand sanitzer (several small bottles)
- Small soap
- Quick-dry towel
- Toothbrush / paste
- Nail trimmers
- Baby wipes
- Earplugs
- Camera
- Altitude watch
- Small personal first-aid kit including:
- Diamox / acetalzolamide: 125 mg
- NSAIDs such as aspirin or ibuprofen
- Antibiotics: such as Azithromyacin for upper respiratory, Ciproflaxin for gastrointestinal
- Melatonin
- Antacids
- Cold and flu meds
- Blister kit
- Bandaid
- Wound closure strips
- Triple antibiotic ointment
- Scissors
- Any personal prescription meds or asthma meds
Travel
Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.
• 15 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($30 USD)
• 30 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($50 USD)
• 90 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($125 USD)
Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic or Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) for updated immunization recommendations for Nepal.
Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal
International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in-country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the country’s destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if applicable. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.
Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Lobuche Peak Fitness & Training
Climbing Grade: Beginner
Lobuche Peak is usually climbed after an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp. We strongly recommend this itinerary because your body’s response to the altitude can determine whether or not you succeed on this climb. Climbers should have basic snow and glacier climbing skills before attempting this peak. Good physical fitness is essential. While ascending to high camp and to the summit you will be breathing heavily and moving slowly while carrying a pack weighing between 30 and 40 pounds.
Before the expedition we recommend that, at minimum, you take a mountaineering course and spend time at altitude.
Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Lobuche Peak.
- Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
- Mount Elbrus
- Mexican Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes, Peaks of Bolivia
