Known to locals as the “Stone Sentinel,” Aconcagua is a majestic, glacially sculpted peak that towers over the heart of the Andes on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is the highest mountain outside of Asia, the highest peak in the Southern and Western hemispheres, and the highest peak in South America, making it one of the world’s famed Seven Summits. The Normal Route offers a truly exciting high altitude climb of moderate difficulty, requiring minimal technical skill but excellent physical conditioning. Solid backpacking skills and proficiency on steep and icy terrain are requisites for this expedition. Prior high altitude experience is beneficial.
Aconcagua • Normal Route • 19 Days
Although the Normal Route is non-technical, it is physically demanding. On our expedition, porters will assist clients in moving most of the shared gear up the mountain, including tents, kitchen equipment and other items. Team members must be able to carry 25-40 lbs. backpacks of their own gear and some group gear or hire personal porters for support. We highly recommend that most expedition members hire personal porters to improve their overall experience on the mountain.
The Normal Route follows the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Aconcagua. Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina, and travels by van to Puente del Inca, the trailhead to the Horcones Valley. The approach trek follows the Horcones River to Confluencia. The 19-day itinerary allows us to spend two nights at Confluencia for acclimatization with a day hike to Plaza Francia, which sits beneath the massive 9,000-foot south face of Aconcagua. The next day we arrive in basecamp, also known as Plaza de Mulas, at 13,976 feet. From Plaza de Mulas our itinerary includes an important acclimatization ascent to the spectacular summit of Mt. Bonete (16,732 feet). Over the next week our expedition establishes a series of three high camps on the upper mountain. We move to Camp Canada (Camp 1), Nido de Condores (Camp 2) and then Camp Colera (Camp 3). From there we make our summit push via the Great Traverse and the Canaleta to the North Summit at 22,840 feet.
Aconcagua is an ideal choice for anyone with a foundation of fundamental climbing skills and high-altitude experience. The peaks of the Pacific Northwest, Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the volcanoes of Ecuador are all excellent preparation for the “Stone Sentinel.”
“The climb of Aconcagua was an unforgettable experience made even better by our fantastic guides and porters. We were overwhelmed by the service, food and support we received. I highly recommend this adventure. In our opinion Mountain Gurus is the only way to experience Argentina’s highest mountain!” ~ Brad, January 2016
Why Mountain Gurus is the best choice for climbing Aconcagua?
At Mountain Gurus, we strive to provide challenging, enjoyable, and safe climbing adventures. We pride ourselves on our high summit success rates and, more importantly, our strong safety record. Our in-depth knowledge of Aconcagua and the surrounding region allows us to give all of our climbers a rich and rewarding experience.
At Mountain Gurus, we plan our expeditions to optimize your climbing experience while respecting the people and environment of our host countries. We adhere to Leave No Trace principles to minimize the impacts of our adventures and ensure that the mountains remain pristine for future generations.
How can I improve my chances of summiting Aconcagua?
Success on Argentina’s “Stone Sentinel” depends on two key factors: Your physical preparation, and the guide company you choose. Mountain Gurus maximizes your potential for a successful summit by ascending the Normal Route, which allows our climbers to rest in a fully equipped basecamp and take advantage of porter support throughout the climb. The Normal Route is non-technical, leaving you free to focus on moving efficiently while at high altitude without the distraction of ropes, harnesses and other equipment. Every route on Aconcagua requires excellent physical conditioning, strong backpacking skills, and the ability to navigate steep and sometimes icy terrain. The Normal Route is no exception. But it is the best option for anyone who is not already an expert mountaineer.
Our 19-day itineraries are designed to give you ample time to acclimatize for your summit bid. On Aconcagua, altitude sickness can be one of the primary obstacles to a successful summit. By ascending gradually up the Horcones Valley, with spectacular acclimatization treks up Cerro Bonete and to the South Face of Aconcagua, we help you experience the full breadth of what this remarkable destination has to offer, and maximize your potential for a safe, successful ascent.
What does an Aconcagua Expedition offer?
A collision of tectonic plates thrust Aconcagua into the sky. Glaciers carved it into a rugged, majestic pyramid. The view from its summit – the highest point in the Andes and all of South America – is unmatched as you stand above the longest mountain range on the planet (more than 4,300 miles from end to end). On your way there, you will experience the rich culture of Argentina.
We begin our journey in Mendoza in the heart of the Argentine wine industry, known for its malbecs, open-air cafes and asados. From there, we travel to our trailhead at Puente del Inca, one of few mountain passes used by the ancient Incan Empire to access this region. Our 16-mile trek up the Horcones Valley allows us to stretch the legs and acclimatize on our way to Plaza de Mulas Basecamp. We then utilize three high camps as we make our way carefully to the summit.
Aconcagua lets you test your strength and endurance at high altitudes without the technical aspects of glacier travel or fixed lines. If you are working your way through the Seven Summits, climbing Aconcagua is excellent preparation for Everest.
What are the costs of climbing Aconcagua?
For a 19-day, high-altitude mountaineering expedition with unique cultural experiences, Aconcagua is relatively affordable. Mountain Gurus’ comprehensive trip fee includes hotel stays before and after the expedition, land transportation to and from the mountain, tented accommodations throughout the expedition, meals, guides, and mules to carry equipment to and from basecamp.
Our fee also includes group gear such as tents, stoves, and climbing equipment, and some group porter services while on the mountain. You will need to arrange your own air travel, climbing permit (price varies by departure date), personal porter service (if desired), medical services (if required), and gratuities to service personnel.
What are the risks of an Aconcagua Expedition?
Every high-altitude adventure involves risk. You can mitigate some of these risks through proper physical and logistical preparation. Our professional guide staff will work diligently to minimize risks you may encounter during the expedition.
Any issues, physical- or altitude-related, are best dealt with early to ensure a safe and successful trip. All Mountain Gurus staff are well-versed in wilderness first aid and have extensive experience working at altitude. Our staff is trained to give you a safe and enjoyable experience.
CLIMB HIGHLIGHTS
- 19 day expedition in Argentina
- Orientation in Mendoza
- 3 nights hotels in Mendoza and Penitentes
- Mule service to Basecamp
- Basecamp and tented camps on Aconcagua
- Porter carries of tents and group equipment to mountain high camps
- Ascent of Cerro Aconcagua (6960m)
- Ascent of Cerro Bonete (5100m)
- All meals on the mountain
- Land transportation
- Support from Mountain Gurus office staff
DAY TO DAY ITINERARY
Day 1 • Arrive in Mendoza
Day 2 • Penitentes • 8,940 ft
Day 3 • Confluencia • 10,826 ft
Day 4 • Confluencia • Plaza Francia • 13,100 ft
Day 5 • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 ft
Day 6 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas
Day 7 • Cerro Bonete • 16,732 ft
Day 8 • Carry • Camp Canadá • 16,500 ft
Day 9 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas
Day 10 • Move • Camp Canadá
Day 11 • Move • Nido de Condores • 18,330 ft
Day 12 • Rest Day • Nido De Condores
Day 13 • Move • Camp Colera
Day 14 • Summit Day • 22,841 ft
Day 15 • Descend to Plaza de Mulas
Day 16 • Penitentes • Mendoza
Day 17 • Depart Mendoza
Day 18 • Contingency Day
Day 19 • Contingency Day
PREREQUISITES
Climbers wishing to qualify for an Aconcagua expedition must have completed, at minimum, one of each of the following with Mountain Gurus & Northwest Alpine Guides:
Mountaineering Training
6-Day Expedition Training
5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course
3-Day Intro to Mountaineering Course
High-Altitude Mountaineering Experience
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
Cotopaxi, Ecuador
Island Peak, Nepal
Tent Peak, Nepal
Additionally, it is highly recommended that you have honed your glacier mountaineering skills with successful summits of various PNW peaks such, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mount Olympus, and Mount Rainier.
Need help choosing a trip?
Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you.
Aconcagua Normal Route • 19 Days
Expedition begins and ends in Mendoza, Argentina
Day 1 • Arrive Mendoza • 2,500 feet
Arrive Governor Francisco Gabrielli International Airport in Mendoza, Argentina (MDZ). The expedition begins in the vibrant city of Mendoza, known for its rich Argentine culture and open-air street cafes. During the afternoon we have an expedition orientation and equipment check. In the evening, you will be free to tour the streets of Mendoza (self-guided) and enjoy the many great restaurants in the area. Transportation from airport to hotel is not included unless requested. (meals not included)
Accommodations: Hotel in Mendoza
Meals Included: None
Day 2 • Penitentes • 8,940 feet
After registering with Aconcagua Provincial Park and obtaining permits, we drive in private vehicles from Mendoza to the small resort town of Penitentes, with a stop en route in Uspallata for lunch. In Penitentes we organize the gear that will be carried to basecamp by mules and then enjoy a traditional Argentine meal before starting to walk to the mountain tomorrow.
Accommodations: Hotel in Penitentes
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 3 • Confluencia • 10,826 feet
After a short drive in a private van to the entrance of the park, we will check in with park officials and then embark on our three-hour hike to Confluencia. Along the way we will travel a picturesque trail wearing light backpacks and enjoy views of Aconcagua. Upon arrival we will be given a tour of camp, and then have a chance to explore the area before relaxing with a full meal and hot drinks. Staff will set up our tents. We will stay here two nights.
Distance: 4.6 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +1,886 feet
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Confluencia
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals
Day 4 • Confluencia • Plaza Francia • 13,100 feet
Today we make a day trip to the impressive Cara Sur, the South Face of Aconcagua. Rising nearly 9,000 vertical feet from the valley below, the South Face has been a proving ground for difficult ascents by some of the world’s most talented climbers. Our goal today is to acclimatize with light packs and return to camp for a good night’s rest.
Distance: 9.5 miles roundtrip
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +2,300 feet / -2,300 feet
Trekking Time: 6-7 hours roundtrip
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Confluencia
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 5 • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 feet
We will trek through the upper reaches of the Horcones River Valley, and then be rewarded with views of Aconcagua and the surrounding peaks as we walk into our basecamp at Plaza de Mulas, set on a rocky moraine near the Horcones Glacier. We can relax here in our full-service camp with warm drinks and meals, Wi-Fi, and hot showers by request.
Distance: 10.5 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +3,150 feet
Trekking Time: 7-9 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de Mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals
Day 6 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 feet
After a healthy breakfast, we will be free to settle into basecamp and take in the surrounding scenery. In the afternoon we will have an orientation and prepare our gear to climb Cerro Bonete the next day. The park service requires a brief medical check-up with the basecamp physician.
Distance: 0 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: 0 feet
Trekking Time: 0 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de Mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 7 • Cerro Bonete • 16,732 feet
Today we undertake an exciting climb up Cerro Bonete, where we will enjoy stunning vistas of Aconcagua and surrounding peaks and give ourselves a potentially vital opportunity to acclimatize before returning to basecamp for another night of rest. For many of our climbers, Cerro Bonete will be their first summit over 5,000 meters.
Distance: 4 miles roundtrip
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +2,750 feet / -2750 feet
Trekking Time: 6-7 hours roundtrip
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de Mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 8 • Carry • Camp Canada • 16,500 feet
The ascent of Aconcagua follows a logical acclimatization schedule of equipment carries and alternate rest days as our group establishes a series of three camps on the upper flanks of the mountain. Today we carry group gear to Camp Canada, eat lunch, and return to Plaza de Mulas. Our route takes us through a field of 2- to 5-foot-tall ice pinnacles called “penitentes.” Team members carry group gear unless assisted by personal porters.
Distance: 3.4 miles roundtrip
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +2,524 feet / -2,524 feet
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours roundtrip
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de Mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None. Team members carry food, fuel and other group expedition supplies
Day 9 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 feet
Today we rest and organize our gear in preparation for our move up the mountain to Camp 1 the next day.
Distance: 0 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: 0 feet
Trekking Time: 0 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de Mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 10 • Move • Camp 1 • Canada • 16,500 feet
This morning we move to Camp Canada. Team members will carry personal gear and a share of group supplies unless assisted by personal porters. Team porters will carry sleeping tents. Once at Camp 1, the team will eat lunch and establish camp on a rocky bench protected from the wind.
Distance: 1.7 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +2,200 feet
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp Canada
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Team porters carry sleeping tents, team members carry some group gear
Day 11 • Move • Camp 2 • Nido de Condores • 18,330 feet
An early morning climb takes us up to our Camp 2, Nido de Condores, where we will spend three nights resting and acclimatizing. Today, each climber will be responsible for carrying only their personal equipment. Team porters will carry group food, tents and other expedition equipment. Once at Nido de Condores we will set up our tents and settle in for the night. Guides will serve you dinner in your tents.
Distance: 1.61 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +1,830 feet
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Nido de Condores
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Team porters carry group gear
Day 12 • Rest Day • Nido de Condores • 18,330 feet
Today our itinerary allows us an excellent chance to further acclimatize and thus maximize our potential for a successful summit bid. We will take a rest day here at Camp 2, eating, hydrating and relaxing in beautiful high alpine terrain.
Distance: 0 miles
Vertical Ascent Trekking: 0 feet
Trekking Time: 0 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Nido de Condores
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 13 • Move • Camp 3 • Colera • 19,685 feet
Today we move up to Camp 3. Team members carry their personal equipment. Team porters will carry sleeping tents and any remaining group gear needed for our summit bid. After strategically situating our camp for protection from potential high winds, guides will give an orientation and check each team member’s summit gear for the next day. We will go to bed early to prepare for an alpine start early the next morning.
Distance: 1 mile
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +1355 ft
Trekking Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp Colera
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Team porters carry sleeping tents, and group gear
Day 14 • Summit Day • Cerro Aconcagua • 22,841 feet
We begin our summit day in the early hours of the morning, climbing the Northwest Ridge until we arrive at what remains of the Independencia Hut (21,476 feet), once considered the highest refuge in the world. The climb continues past Windy Col (Portezuelo del Viento) and traverses the West Face (Gran Acarreo) to the base of the Canaleta. The Canaleta, renowned as the most challenging part of the route, is a narrow ravine rising nearly 900 vertical feet to the summit. Steadily we ascend, traversing the narrow Guanaco Ridge before taking our final exhilarating steps onto the towering North Summit at 22,841 feet above sea level. A large metal cross marks the highest mountain in South America. As we congratulate each other and take summit photos, the vast mountains of the Andes spread out below us. The lower South Summit rises in the foreground and directly beyond it plunges the famous 9,000-ft South Face of Aconcagua. We descend to Camp Three and spend the night.
Distance: 3.6 miles roundtrip
Vertical Ascent Trekking: +3155 ft / -3155 ft
Trekking Time: 8-12 hours roundtrip
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp Colera
Meals Included: Breakfast, Pack Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Team Porter Assistance: None
Day 15 • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 feet
We pack our camp and descend slowly back to basecamp with team porters carrying sleeping tents and human waste. Once back in basecamp we will celebrate our climbing experience and enjoy a hot meal.
Distance: 3.4 miles
Vertical Descent Trekking: -5,700 feet
Trekking Time: 4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Plaza de mulas
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Team Porter Assistance: Team porters carry tents and human waste. team members carry some group gear
Day 16 • Mendoza • 2,500 feet
After a full day’s trek via the Horcones Valley we finally reach the park entrance known as Puente del Inca. Transport to Mendoza.
Distance: 14.6 miles
Vertical Descent: -11,480 feet
Trekking Time: 6-7 hours
Accommodations: Hotel in Mendoza
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch (B, PL) (Mendoza dinner not included)
Team Porter Assistance: Pack animals
Day 17 • Depart Mendoza
Enjoy Mendoza before an evening flights home.
Meals Included: Breakfast (B)
Day 18 – 19 • Contingency Days
Two additional days are scheduled for weather or acclimatization as needed. Mountain meals are included for these days.
Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.
Head and Face
- Warm Hat: Wool/ synthetic, one that covers the ears.
- Buff or Balaclava
- Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
- Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
- Goggles: Dark lenses to help with snow and wind.
- Sunscreen: SPF 30+
- Lip Balm: SPF 30+
- Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.
Upper Body
- Baselayer Tops: Two synthetic long-sleeve shirts.
- Mid-layer Top: This is a synthetic or fleece top.
- Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
- Hardshell Jacket: GORE-TEX© or a fully waterproof shell. Hoods are highly recommended.
- Lightweight insulated jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket.
- Down Parka: Heavyweight 700+ fill down.
Handwear
- Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
- Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
- Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove or mitten with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.
Lower Body
- Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton
- Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
- Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your Hardshell pants without removing your boots.
- Insulated Pants: One pair of synthetic insulated pants with full side zips.
- Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.
Footwear
- Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible. Double plastic mountaineering boots or Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots are required.
- Approach Shoes: Light hiking boots or sturdy trail running shoes.
- Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
- Heavyweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.
Sleeping
- Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to minus -20ᵒ fahrenheit).
- Sleeping Pad: A full-length closed-cell foam pad and/ or an inflatable pad.
Packing and Backpack
- Backpack: One 100L pack with good support, adequate to carry personal, and group gear. The pack should fit properly, have a good waist belt, and be able to carry gear between 45-60 lbs.
- Duffle/zip Bag: One large size 120 to 150L, transporting gear to basecamp via mules.
- Liner Bags: 2-3 Large plastic contractor bags.
Climbing Gear
- Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
- Ice Axe: A general mountaineering ice axe.
- Nylon Sling: (1) 60 cm nylon sling to be used on the summit day.
- Carabiners: 2 screw gate, locking carabiners.
- Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
- Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
Hydration
- Water Bottle: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
- Water Bottle Parkas: Two, fully insulated water bottle covers.
Personal Health and First Aid
- Snacks and drinks
- Small personal first-aid kit and medications
- Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
- Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
- Earplugs
Travel
Program Location:
Begins and ends in Mendoza, Argentina
Visa/Entry Information:
A valid passport is required for American citizens to enter Argentina. American citizens do not need a visa for visits of up to 90 days for tourism.
Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Argentina.
Flight Travel Information:
Governor Francisco Gabrielli International Airport (MDZ), Mendoza, Argentina
International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in-country in the destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.
Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in a pre-departure information packet upon booking. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Aconcagua Fitness & Training
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
The approach to basecamp includes a 30-mile hike carrying a 25-pound pack, while utilizing mule support for climbing gear. Beyond basecamp, all climbers who choose not to hire a personal porter must be able to carry a 45- to 60-pound pack as we establish a series of camps higher on the mountain. On summit day, you will be breathing heavily, moving slowly, and carrying a 25-pound summit pack. To succeed on Aconcagua, you must be in top physical and mental condition.
Before departing for Aconcagua, we recommend that you take a mountaineering course to master the technical skills essential for reaching the summit.
We suggest the following climbing progression to prepare for Aconcagua:
- Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
- Glacier Mountaineering Course
- Expedition Training Course
- Mexico Volcanoes
- Ecuador Volcanoes
- Peaks of Peru
- Mount Elbrus
Note: Individual porter services are available for carry and move days on the mountain. Personal porter fees are not included in the price of the trip. Please contact us for pricing.
