Aconcagua • Normal Route • 19 Days

Known to locals as the “Stone Sentinel,” Aconcagua is a majestic, glacially sculpted peak that towers over the heart of the Andes on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is the highest mountain outside of Asia, the highest peak in the Southern and Western hemispheres, and the highest peak in South America, making it one of the world’s famed Seven Summits. The Normal Route offers a truly exciting high altitude climb of moderate difficulty, requiring minimal technical skill but excellent physical conditioning. Solid backpacking skills and proficiency on steep and icy terrain are requisites for this expedition. Prior high altitude experience is beneficial.

Although the Normal Route is non-technical, it is physically demanding. On our expedition, porters will assist clients in moving most of the shared gear up the mountain, including tents, kitchen equipment and other items. Team members must be able to carry 25-40 lbs. backpacks of their own gear and some group gear or hire personal porters for support. We highly recommend that most expedition members hire personal porters to improve their overall experience on the mountain.

The Normal Route follows the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Aconcagua. Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina, and travels by van to Puente del Inca, the trailhead to the Horcones Valley. The approach trek follows the Horcones River to Confluencia. The 19-day itinerary allows us to spend two nights at Confluencia for acclimatization with a day hike to Plaza Francia, which sits beneath the massive 9,000-foot south face of Aconcagua. The next day we arrive in basecamp, also known as Plaza de Mulas, at 13,976 feet. From Plaza de Mulas our itinerary includes an important acclimatization ascent to the spectacular summit of Mt. Bonete (16,732 feet). Over the next week our expedition establishes a series of three high camps on the upper mountain. We move to Camp Canada (Camp 1), Nido de Condores (Camp 2) and then Camp Colera (Camp 3). From there we make our summit push via the Great Traverse and the Canaleta to the North Summit at 22,840 feet.

Aconcagua is an ideal choice for anyone with a foundation of fundamental climbing skills and high-altitude experience. The peaks of the Pacific Northwest, Kilimanjaro, Mount Elbrus, and the volcanoes of Ecuador are all excellent preparation for the “Stone Sentinel.

Tour Highlights

  • 19 day expedition in Argentina
  • Orientation in Mendoza
  • 3 nights hotels in Mendoza and Penitentes
  • Mule service to Basecamp
  • Basecamp and tented camps on Aconcagua
  • Porter carries of tents and group equipment to mountain high camps
  • Ascent of Cerro Aconcagua (6960m)
  • Ascent of Cerro Bonete (5100m)
  • All meals on the mountain
  • Land transportation
  • Support from Mountain Gurus office staff

Itinerary

Day 1 • Arrive in Mendoza
Day 2 • Penitentes • 8,940 ft
Day 3 • Confluencia • 10,826 ft
Day 4 • Confluencia • Plaza Francia • 13,100 ft
Day 5 • Plaza de Mulas • 13,976 ft
Day 6 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas
Day 7 • Cerro Bonete • 16,732 ft
Day 8 • Carry • Camp Canadá • 16,500 ft
Day 9 • Rest Day • Plaza de Mulas
Day 10 • Move • Camp Canadá
Day 11 • Move • Nido de Condores • 18,330 ft
Day 12 • Rest Day • Nido De Condores
Day 13 • Move • Camp Colera
Day 14 • Summit Day • 22,841 ft
Day 15 • Descend to Plaza de Mulas
Day 16 • Penitentes • Mendoza
Day 17 • Depart Mendoza
Day 18 • Contingency Day
Day 19 • Contingency Day

Prerequisites

Climbers wishing to qualify for an Aconcagua expedition must have completed, at minimum, one of each of the following with Mountain Gurus & Northwest Alpine Guides:

Mountaineering Training
6-Day Expedition Training
5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course
3-Day Intro to Mountaineering Course

High-Altitude Mountaineering Experience
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
Cotopaxi, Ecuador
Island Peak, Nepal
Tent Peak, Nepal

Additionally, it is highly recommended that you have honed your glacier mountaineering skills with successful summits of various PNW peaks such, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mount Olympus, and Mount Rainier.

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