Our Everest Camp II team is now open to qualified climbers. Mountain Gurus’ Camp II Expedition up the standard Everest Southside Route is led by a team of highly experienced IFMGA certified Sherpa guides. Please contact us directly to learn more about our 30-day full-service climb.
Mount Everest remains the premier guided climbing challenge of our time. No other mountain range inspires mountaineers like the sheer heights and towering peaks of the Himalaya. For climbers who want to experience Mount Everest but cannot join our summit climb, Mountain Gurus presents the opportunity to climb through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 2, or to Camp 3 high on the Lhotse Face. These exciting options allow you to gain high altitude experience in one of the most stunning places on the planet, while walking in the footsteps of climbing legends. Mount Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmond Hillary in 1953 via this Southside Route.
Climbing to Camp II, or on to Camp III, does not involve substantial technical difficulties, but it does demand a high level of proficiency on steep and exposed terrain at high altitude. The Camp II expedition is an excellent, affordable choice whether you’re preparing for your first high altitude summit on a different mountain, training to climb Everest itself, or simply want to learn what it is like to climb on the highest mountain in the world.
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Everest Camp II • Camp III
Mountain Gurus proudly offers a fully supported Everest climb. Our team of experienced Sherpa guides handle all the logistics for our expeditions. As IFMGA/UIAGM trained Sherpa guides they take great pride in managing our ground operations, our expedition staff, and our skilled team of climbing Sherpas to ensure safety and success on the mountain. All of our mountain guides have extensive experience on Mount Everest with multiple summit climbs.
Our Camp II expedition begins in Kathmandu’s bustling tourist district of Thamel. After an orientation, gear check, and welcome dinner, the team wakes early to depart by Twin Otter plane to Lukla. We then trek along the Dudh Koshi River to the legendary Sherpa village of Namche Bazaar, the “Gateway to the Khumbu Valley.” Over the next week, we enjoy amazing Himalayan views as we approach Everest Base Camp. We cross the Imja River and climb to Tengboche Monastery. Then we enter the upper Khumbu Valley, passing the well-established trekking outposts of Dingboche, Lobuche and finally Gorak Shep before reaching Everest Base Camp at 17,700 feet. The climb to Camp 2 and Camp 3 ascends through the seracs and crevasses of the Khumbu Icefall using fixed ropes and ladders prepared by our Sherpa climbing team. The classic Southside Route climbs to Camp 2 via the Western CWM, then to Camp 3 high on the Lhotse Face.
To maximize your chances of success and minimize the risks you face, we maintain a flexible schedule on our Everest Camp II and Camp III expeditions. Our acclimatization schedule may include an ascent of Lobuche East (20,075 feet) before we arrive in base camp. Lobuche East is a world class mountaineering objective, and climbing it allows us to move one of our acclimatization rotations out of the hazardous Khumbu Icefall. For added flexibility, team members may choose to use a helicopter for the trekking phase of the expedition.
“Our month on Everest is an experience I’ll remember forever. In the months leading up to the trip, my conversations with Dennis were informative and exciting, and I was continuously impressed with how knowledgeable, experienced, and thorough his planning was. He anticipated exactly what we’d need on the trip; and was able to custom make our itinerary to fit our unique requests. His hard work paid off and our trek went off without a hitch. When you’re on the mountain and things are getting tough, you appreciate the little details – Dennis had taken care of all of them and it made our outstanding experience what it was!” ~ Nina G, Spring 2011
PREREQUISITES FOR EVEREST
Climbers wishing to qualify for an Everest Camp II expedition must have completed, at minimum, one of each of the following with Mountain Gurus & Northwest Alpine Guides:
Glacier Mountaineering Expedition Training
6-Day Expedition Training (preferred)
5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course
3-Day Intro to Mountaineering Course
High-Altitude Glacier Mountaineering Experience
Pico de Orizaba – Mexico
Cotopaxi – Ecuador
Island Peak – Nepal
Tent Peak – Nepal
Lobuche Peak – Nepal
Additionally, it is highly recommended that you have honed your glacier mountaineering skills with successful summits of various PNW peaks such, Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Mount Olympus, and Mount Rainier.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 1 – 12 • Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp
Day 13 – 16 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 ft
Day 17 • Khumbu Icefall • 19,000 ft
Day 18 • Everest Base Camp
Day 19 – 20 • Khumbu Icefall to Camp I • 19,500 ft
Day 21 • Western Cwm to Camp II • 21,000 ft
Day 22 • Return to Everest Base Camp
Day 23 – 28 • Pheriche – Kathmandu
Day 29 – 30 • Contingency Days
Everest Camp II
Expedition begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Day 1 – 11 • Arrive Kathmandu – Gorak Shep • 16,942 feet
For a full description of Days 1 to 11, see our Everest Southside Itinerary.
Day 12 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet
From the tiny outpost of Gorak Shep, we meander up the Khumbu Glacier, passing yak trains laden with supplies for climbing expeditions, until we reach Everest Base Camp, a busy village of mountaineering tents at the foot of the massive, jumbled seracs of the Khumbu Icefall. After moving into our individual sleeping tents, we gather in our heated, carpeted dining tent for a delicious meal prepared by our professional chefs.
Vertical Ascent Trekking: 600 feet
Trekking Time: 4-5 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 13 – 16 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet
We spend the next few days acclimatizing, organizing gear and getting acquainted with expedition life. Our team will participate in the expedition “puja” ceremony important to our Sherpa staff before beginning our climbing rotations. We review the climbing skills we will need to safely ascend and descend through the Khumbu Icefall. We usually do an additional hike to Pumori Camp 1 at 19,000 feet for acclimatization before heading into the icefall.
Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,400 feet to Pumori Camp 1
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 17 • Khumbu Icefall • 19,000 feet
We awake early for our acclimatization ascent into the Khumbu Icefall. Using fixed ropes and ladders we navigate through the icefall’s seracs and crevasses. After climbing halfway through the icefall, we descend to basecamp.
Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,400 feet
Climbing Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Day 18 • Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet
Rest and acclimatization day.
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 19 – 20 • Khumbu Icefall to Camp I • 19,500 feet
We awake early in the morning and climb back through the Khumbu Icefall. This time we ascend to Camp 1 in the remote valley known as the Western Cwm.
Vertical Ascent Climbing: 2,900 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 1
Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Day 21 • Western Cwm to Camp II • 21,000 feet
In the morning we climb to Camp 2. We move into our tents here, surrounded by spectacular views of the massive Southwest Face of Everest and Lhotse.
Vertical Ascent Climbing: 1,500 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours
Tented Camp at Camp 2
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Day 22 • Return to Everest Base Camp • 17,600 feet
Today we descend from Camp 2 to Base Camp. We make our final decent through the Khumbu Icefall.
Vertical Descent Climbing: 3,400 feet
Climbing Time: 5-7 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Everest Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 23 – 28 • Pheriche – Depart Kathmandu
Over the next days we descend to Pheriche, Namche and Lukla. Once back in Kathmandu we transport to Tribhuvan International Airport for flights home.
Accommodations: Lodges and Hotel in Kathmandu
Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B, L, D)
Day 29 – 30 • Contingency Days
These extra days will be reserved as an additional rest or weather days. This could also be used for an additional ascent of Lobuche Peak prior to climbing to Camp 2.
Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
Head and Face
- Warm Hat: Wool or synthetic that cover the ears
- Buff or Neck Gaiter
- Heavyweight Balaclava
- Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
- Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
- Sunscreen: SPF 30+
- Lip Balm: SPF 30+
- Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.
Upper Body
- Lightweight Baselayer Top: Two synthetic long-sleeve shirts
- Medium Weight Baselayer Top: A synthetic or fleece top.
- Softshell Jacket: This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
- Hardshell Jacket: A fully waterproof shell. GORE-TEX© or equivalent. Hoods are required.
- Insulated Jacket: Heavy weight down. 700+ fill or higher required.
Handwear
- Lightweight Gloves: One pair (WINDSTOPPER© is recommended)
- Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip
- Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated gloves or mittens with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer
Lower Body
- Lightweight Baselayer Bottom: One pair long underwear. Synthetic, no cotton
- Mediumweight Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton
- Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated
- Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your hardshell pants without removing your boots.
- Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.
Footwear
- Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible double plastic, or Heavy weight synthetic/ hybrid mountaineering boots are required.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guide for recommendations.
- Medium Weight Trekking Boots: For approach to base camp
- Lightweight Sneakers: For travel and base camp
- Down Booties: With a durable sole
- Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
- Heavyweight Socks: One pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.
Sleeping
- Sleeping Bag: Bring a warm bag (rated to minus 20ᵒ Fahrenheit)
- Sleeping Pads: A full-length closed-cell foam pad or an inflatable pad.
Packing and Backpack
- Backpack: One 65-75 liter pack for personal gear. Should have an effective waist belt, fit properly and provide good support while carrying 30-40 lbs.
- Liner Bags: 1 large plastic contractor bag.
- Day Pack: Lightweight 30-liter pack
- Duffel Bag: Two large, waterproof PVC duffel bag for transporting gear via porters or pack animals.
Climbing Gear
- Ice Axe: 55-75 cm mountaineering axe.
- Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
- Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
- Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
- Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
- Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
- Non-Locking Carabiners: (4) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
- Ascender: Left or right handed
- Rappel/Delay device: Figure 8 recommended
- Nylon Slings: (3) 60 cm nylon slings
Hydration
- Water Bottles: Two, 1L wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
- Water Bottle Parkas: Two, fully insulated water bottle covers.
- Thermos: 1-liter
- Water Purification: Iodine tablets, filter or UV treatment
- Electrolyte Mix: Such as Nuun
Personal Travel, Health and First Aid
- Travel wallet for passport, cash and travel documents
- Two (2) passport photos
- Casual travel clothes
- Personal snacks: We recommend 5 pounds (2 kilos). A mix of sweet and salty whole foods (nuts, dried fruit, dried meat) and energy foods such as Gu, Nuun and Shot Blocks
- Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
- Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
- Hand sanitzer (several small bottles)
- Small soap
- Quick-dry towel
- Toothbrush / paste
- Nail trimmers
- Baby wipes
- Earplugs
- Camera
- Altitude watch
- Multitool
- Small personal first-aid kit including:
- Diamox / acetalzolamide: 125 mg
- NSAIDs such as aspirin or ibuprofen
- Antibiotics: such as Azithromyacin for upper respiratory, Ciproflaxin for gastrointestinal
- Melatonin
- Antacids
- Cold and flu meds
- Blister kit
- Bandaid
- Wound closure strips
- Triple antibiotic ointment
- Scissors
- Any personal prescription meds or asthma meds
Travel
Program Location:
Begins and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal
Visa/Entry Information:
Passport must have six months or more validity remaining at the time of entry. American citizens may obtain a visa prior to travel or upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.
- 30 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($50 USD)
- 90 days multiple-entry tourist visa ($125 USD)
Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required for entry into Nepal. Consult your doctor, local travel clinic or Centers for Disease Control (CDC) for updated immunization recommendations in Nepal and China. Recommended immunizations include: diphtheria-tetanus (DPT), polio, measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), meningitis, hepatitis A and B, cholera, typhoid, rabies. Malaria medication is only necessary if you plan to visit low-lying areas of Nepal / India after the climb.
Flight Travel Information:
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), Kathmandu, Nepal
International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in-country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the country’s destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if applicable. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.
Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Everest Camp II Fitness & Training
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
This climb requires physical strength, mental fortitude and solid technical skills. To reach Camp II and Camp III climbers must navigate fixed ropes and ladders through the precipitous terrain of the Khumbu Icefall, then ascend steep and exposed snow and ice slopes, all while carrying a roughly 30-pound pack at high altitude.
All climbers should learn basic snow and ice climbing skills before arriving in Nepal. Before the expedition, we recommend that you spend time at altitude and take, at minimum, an introductory mountaineering course.
Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting to climb to Everest Camp II or Camp III:
- Northwest Climb (Mount Baker, Mount Rainier, Mount Shuksan)
- Mount Elbrus
- Mexican Volcanoes, Ecuador Volcanoes, Peaks of Bolivia
Things you should know about this trip
What are the physical requirements of this trek and climb?
While approaching Everest Base Camp, you will hike for 6 to 8 hours per day with a 20-pound pack. On climbing days, you will ascend as much as 3,000 vertical feet over the course of 5 to 8 hours with a pack weighing 30 pounds or more. You will be climbing at high altitude in sometimes steep and icy terrain, crossing ladders and ascending fixed lines. Excellent physical fitness, a positive attitude, and mental resilience are essential.
Why Choose Mountain Gurus
Since 2008, we have offered world-class Seven Summits expeditions, high-altitude climbs, and specialized treks around the globe from the Himalayas to the Andes, and from the heights of Africa to the rainforests of the Amazon Basin. We make safety our foremost priority. We employ some of the most talented guides in the industry, and we maintain low client-to-guide ratios to ensure that you enjoy the best possible experience. Our business is rooted in environmental and social stewardship. We also offer a wide selection of mountaineering courses and climbs in the Pacific Northwest through our partner company, Northwest Alpine Guides. To learn more about our services, history and philosophy, please visit: Why Choose Mountain Gurus.
Who will guide my climb?
Our Everest Camp II and III expeditions are guided by a team of certified, professional Sherpa mountain guides, or an American mountain guide, with extensive experience on 8,000-meter peaks. Many of them are from the Khumbu Valley at the foot of Mount Everest and are intimately connected with the area’s communities and culture.
What are the Everest climbing seasons?
The best period to climb to Camp II is during the pre-monsoon Spring climbing season from April to May, when the vast majority of expeditions attempt Mount Everest.
How much will my pack weigh?
We strive to keep your pack weight low. On the approach to base camp, porters and pack animals will carry group expedition gear and your overnight gear, allowing you to trek with only a light daypack weighing 15 to 20 pounds. Beyond base camp all climbers are required to carry packs weighing 35 pounds or more as we establish a series of camps higher on the mountain. Climbing Sherpas will carry group gear and, if possible, a share of your personal climbing gear. Being in top physical and mental condition is key to succeeding on this climb.
Where will we stay?
In Kathmandu, you will stay in clean, comfortable hotels within walking distance of Kathmandu’s bustling tourist district. On the approach to base camp you will stay in some of the finest available, family-owned tea houses and lodges. In our base camp, you will enjoy fresh, nutritious food prepared by our professional chefs, communal dining and hangout tents and other amenities. While climbing and in remote areas we overnight in high-quality mountain tents.
What are the risks of an Everest Expedition?
Every high-altitude mountaineering expedition entails danger, and the climb to Camp II or to Camp III on Everest is no exception. Our professional guides are trained in wilderness emergency medicine and have extensive experience working at altitude. You can do your part by arriving in Nepal in strong physical and mental condition with appropriate climbing experience under your belt. Ultimately, the mountain decides who will stand on the summit, but with careful preparation, the right attitude and the right guides, you will maximize your potential for a safe, successful climb.
