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Mount Daniels East Peak

By June 15, 2007April 22nd, 2018Cascade Climbs

Climbers: Dennis, Jose
Route: Hyas Glacier
Climb Description: We drove to Salmon la Sac stopping first in Roslyn to eat a good meal. Camping at the Cathedral Pass trailhead we awoke at 3:00am and started up the trail. Route finding the snowy trail to Cathedral Rock traversing past steep slopes to Peggy’s Pond. After a short break we headed up Hyas Creek Glacier, making our way up the left side of the snowy basin then crossing the glacier and climbing the steep snow chute to the northeast ridge. Up open slopes, we then made a critical route finding mistake, climbing to the notch above the big spire only to find a steep drop below. We then opted to climb the East Peak. Climbing another 300+ feet crossing the bergshrund we reached the top of the East Peak at 7960 feet. Looking to the Middle and West Peaks (highest point) with envy, I told myself “I’ll be back another day” with tired legs and a long descent we decided to head down. We descended quickly to Peggy’s Pond. Reaching the truck 12 hours after we left. We ended our climb with another stop in Roslyn for a burger and cold beer.
Weather/Conditions: Clear and Warm
Gear: Crampons, Ice Axe and Rope

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