$11,000
Spring 2021
May 6 – May 27, 2021
May 10 – May 31, 2021
May 13 – June 3, 2021
May 17 – June 7, 2021
May 20 – June 10, 2021
May 24 – June 14, 2021
May 31 – June 21, 2021
June 3 – June 24, 2021
June 7 – June 28, 2021
June 14 – July 5, 2021
June 17 – July 8, 2021
22 days in Alaska
Grade: Advanced
At 20,310 feet, Denali is the highest peak in North America and one of the most spectacular and challenging climbs of the famed Seven Summits. Denali means “the tall one” in the local Koyukon language, a fitting name for a mountain where the base-to-summit elevation relief is roughly 18,000 feet – greater than any other peak situated entirely above sea level. Set in the midst of more than six million acres of wild land, Denali offers a serious and beautiful wilderness mountaineering experience. Climbers must confront severe weather, high altitudes and the rigors of a multi-week expedition. Their reward is an experience of a lifetime in one of the most stunning landscapes on the planet.
Mountain Gurus climbs the classic West Buttress route, which was pioneered by the legendary mountaineer Bradford Washburn in 1951. We ascend in traditional expedition style. We acclimatize while establishing a series of camp higher and higher on the mountain and then ascend to the summit when our fitness and the weather allow. We schedule 22 days for this climb. That is usually more than enough time, but we have the option of extending our expedition if persistent storms occur.
On Day 1, our team gathers for an orientation and gear check in the famous town of Talkeetna south of Denali National Park and Preserve. The next day we fly 60 miles to our base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at 7,200 feet. Over the next two weeks we alternate rest days with gear carries as we establish Camp 1 at 7,800 feet, Camp 2 at 11,000’, Camp 3 at 14,200’ and eventually Camp 4 at 17,200 feet. With plenty of potential summit days in our itinerary, we hunker down at Camp 4 and wait for a weather window. Then we dig deep and complete the 10- to 12-hour roundtrip climb to the top of North America and back to Camp 4. We descend the route to base camp and fly back to Talkeetna.
This is one of the most common questions we receive. There is no perfect answer for it because mountain conditions change from year to year and severe storms can occur at any time. That said, the most popular climbing season on Denali runs from mid-May through mid-June. This “high season” falls into a sweet spot. Expeditions that begin in mid-May usually arrive on the upper mountain after the severe cold and high winds of early spring have subsided. They also avoid the significant crevasse hazard that can hinder travel on the lower glacier beginning in July. Still, the timing of an expedition depends partly on personal preference. Some may prefer to visit Denali in the shoulder seasons before or after the most popular window, when fewer people are on the mountain and climbers enjoy a more pristine, wilderness experience.
An ascent of Denali is an excellent goal. It can be a fantastic source of inspiration as you progress in your climbing career. This expedition demands significant mountaineering and expedition living experience. To maximize your chances of success, you should be familiar with roped glacier travel while using an ice axe and crampons, and familiar with basic knots and ropework. You should have excellent physical fitness and a positive, flexible mindset that allows you to be a committed, contributing team member while living at high altitudes in the cold.
You should already have a solid foundation of these skills by the time your flight touches down on the Kahiltna Glacier. To prepare, we encourage you to climb glaciated peaks in the Pacific Northwest and join one of our 3-day Intro Mountaineering or 5-day Glacier Mountaineering courses on Mount Baker, or our 6-day Expedition Training Course on Mount Rainier. You will also benefit from international high-altitude mountaineering experience on peaks such as Mount Elbrus, Island Peak, Cotopaxi and Aconcagua. Winter ascents of Mount Washington can serve as good training as well.
For more tips on how best to prepare for an ascent of Denali, please read our Four-Legged Stool blog post. Please don’t hesitate to call our office and speak with us directly. We would be glad to help you design a training plan to take you to the top of the highest peak in North America!
*MG operates Denali climbs through an authorized concessionaire
Day 1 • Talkeetna, Alaska • Gear check
Day 2 • Flight to Kahiltna Glacier • 7,200 ft
Day 3 • Move • Camp I • 7,800 ft
Day 4 • Carry • Kahiltna Pass to cache gear
Day 5 • Move • Camp II • 11,000 ft
Day 6 • Back carry • Kahiltna Pass
Day 7 • Carry • Windy Corner • 13,500 ft
Day 8 • Move • Camp III • 14,200 ft
Day 9 • Back carry • Windy Corner
Day 10 • Carry • 16,200 ft
Day 11 • Rest Day • Camp III
Day 12 • Move • Camp IV • 17,200 ft
Day 13 • Rest Day • Camp IV
Day 14 • Summit Day • Denali • 20,310 ft
Days 15 – 16 • Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp
Day 17 • Return to Talkeetna, AK
Days 18 – 22 • Contingency Days
Expedition begins and ends in Talkeetna, Alaska
Meet afternoon in downtown Talkeetna for group orientation, gear check, and expedition lunch packing.
Accommodations: Hotel in Talkeetna
Meals Included: None
We eat breakfast then stop by the National Park Service office for a mandatory orientation. After reviewing climbing skills we will need when we touch down on the glacier, we board our plane (weather dependent) in the afternoon and fly 60 miles to our base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier in the famous Alaska Range.
Distance: 60 miles
Elevation Gain: 6,850 feet
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Base Camp
Meals Included: Dinner (D)
After a glacier travel and crevasse rescue drill, we pack up our entire camp and descend Heartbreak Hill to the main fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We pull sleds on our gradual, 5-mile ascent to Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill.
Distance: 5.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 600 feet
Climbing Time: 6-7 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 1
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
After breakfast, we ascend Ski Hill carrying equipment and food for the upper mountain up. This is an excellent way to acclimatize and practice pulling sleds. We caching our gear and descend to Camp 1.
Distance: 5 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 1,900 feet
Climbing Time: 5-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 1
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Carrying the remainder of our gear and food, we leave Camp 1 and establish Camp II at 11,000 feet.
Distance: 4 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,200 feet
Climbing Time: 5-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 2
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We descend back to Kahiltna Pass to collect our cached gear. This is an active rest day that also helps us acclimatize.
Distance: 2 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: None
Climbing Time: 2-3 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 2
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We ascend Motorcycle Hill and cache equipment and food at Windy Corner to prepare for our move to Camp III.
Distance: 3.5 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2,500 feet
Climbing Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 2
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We move to 14,200 feet and establish Camp III.
Distance: 2.75 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,200 feet
Climbing Time: 4-5 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We descend back to Windy Corner to collect our cached gear. This is an active rest day that also helps us acclimatize. In the afternoon, we practice on a simulated fixed line in camp to prepare for the terrain above Camp 3.
Distance: 2 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: None
Climbing Time: 2-3 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Today we complete the last carry of our expedition. We ascend fixed lines to 16,200 feet, where we cache gear for Camp 4.
Distance: 2 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2,000 feet
Climbing Time: 5-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Rest and recovery at Camp III. We will also review fixed line use in preparation for the next few days.
Distance: None
Elevation Gain: None
Climbing Time: None
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We re-ascend fixed lines to our cache at 16,500 feet, collect our gear and continue along an exposed ridge to Camp 4.
Distance: 1.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet
Climbing Time: 4-6 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
A rest and recovery or contingency day at Camp 4. Most teams need a rest day after moving to Camp 4.
Distance: None
Elevation Gain: None
Climbing Time: None
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 4
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We wake early and traverse the 40-degree slopes of the famous Autobahn on our way to Denali Pass. Milder terrain on the summit plateau takes us to Pig Hill and eventually the corniced summit ridge of the highest peak in North America. We celebrate our success then carefully return to Camp 4.
Distance: 5 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 3,120 feet
Climbing Time: 10-12 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 4
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
We pack our gear and descend the fixed lines to Camp 3 for a short night’s sleep.
Distance: 1.5 miles
Elevation Loss: 3,000 feet
Climbing Time: 2-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp at Camp 3
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
With the most challenging terrain behind us, we sleep in, enjoy a 2-hour brunch, take a nap and then pack our sleds and descend the entire route back to base camp. We arrive in base camp at around 4 a.m., when cool temperatures contribute to firm, strong snow bridges on the lower mountain.
Distance: 12.25 miles
Elevation Loss: 7,200 feet
Climbing Time: 6-8 hours
Accommodations: Bivy at Base Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner (B, PL, D)
Flight to Talkeetna. Begin travel home.
Contingency days allow us to adjust our schedule for weather, mountain conditions, or team needs.
Itinerary Notes
Mountain Gurus makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
$11,000
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your trip will be sent to you in the PreClimb information upon reservation.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boot and Crampon guide for more information.
Program Location:
Begins and ends in Talkeetna, Alaska
Visa/Entry Information:
No visa requirements for US citizens.
Health & Immunizations:
Immunizations are not required.
Flight Travel Information:
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC), Anchorage, Alaska
International Departures:
Itineraries reflect the date and time you will need to arrive in-country for a program. Mountain Gurus programs begin and end in the country’s destination city. When booking your flight, you will need to account for travel time and crossing the international dateline if needed. It is easiest to give your booking agent the day and time you will need to arrive.
Meals and Food:
All meals are provided as per meal schedule. See itinerary.
Gear:
A complete clothing and equipment list specific to your program will be sent to you in the pre-departure packet upon reservation. For your safety and comfort, it is extremely important that you adhere strictly to the equipment list.
Climbing Grade: Advanced
Some consider Denali to be the hardest of the Seven Summits due to its remote location and severe weather. From base camp to the summit, we climb 13,000 vertical feet, that’s more vertical gain than on Everest. Along the way, we are completely self-sufficient. All team members must carry large packs and tow sleds laden with gear. Be prepared to carry as much as 70 pounds on your back and pull a sled with up to 100 pounds of gear.
Before your expedition we recommend that you take, at minimum, a mountaineering course and climb other high-altitude peaks.
Here’s a suggested progression of climbs before attempting Denali:
Mountaineering in Alaska is a serious undertaking that can reward us with experiences of a lifetime. On every expedition, we encounter hazards posed by terrain, weather and altitude. Safety is our first priority, and our expert guides manage these risks through careful planning, extensive training and experience, and first-rate client care. All of our guides are certified Wilderness First Responders and many are EMTs. They are overseen by some of the world’s leading experts in expedition medicine, and some of the most experienced guides in the Alaska Range. All of our teams are equipped with the highest quality mountaineering gear, medical kits, radios and satellite phones. We cannot eliminate the possibility of an accident, but we take pride in our ability to minimize the risks you face and the consequences if one should occur.
For Denali, you should develop your technical, altitude and expedition living skills. For many of our climbers, the path to the top of North America begins on one of our mountaineering courses on Mount Baker or Mount Rainier. From there, we recommend that you gain high-altitude international expedition experience by climbing Mount Elbrus, Island Peak, Cotopaxi, Aconcagua or other peaks of similar difficulty. For more information on mountaineering training, please refer to our Goals and Fitness page.
Our Denali expedition is all-inclusive. Your trip fee covers everything you will need to access our basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier and climb the mountain, including roundtrip transportation between Anchorage and the Kahiltna, National Park Service fees, professional mountain guides, all group expedition equipment including sleds for gear, and tented accommodations and meals on the mountain. Your fee does not include: travel to and from Anchorage, lodging in Anchorage, trip insurance, personal gear, gratuities and other expenses as listed.
You should prepare to carry a backpack as heavy as 60 pounds on the lower mountain while pulling a loaded sled. On the upper mountain, we have to carry larger packs – as heavy as 75 pounds – because the terrain prevents us from pulling sleds. You must carry your personal equipment and a share of group expedition gear.
We know that on an extended expedition like Denali, serving healthful, nutritious food is a key factor for a successful summit. We offer some of the best food on the mountain. We order much of it directly through organic wholesalers in Washington State, then store our cheese, butter, meat and other perishables in refrigerators in Talkeetna to ensure it is as fresh as possible when it arrives on the glacier. Few other outfitters can offer such fresh food.
This mountain is extremely isolated. There is no cell phone service or internet once we leave Talkeetna. A satellite phone will be on hand for emergency purposes.
